It's not so much that smiling isn't allowed in Hungary, it's just that it isn't really encouraged either. So, Ali and I had a rule during our 4 days in Budapest ... No smiling in photos. No smiling in windswept, bedraggled, end of the day desperate attempts to save some warmth by using your scarf as a babushka moments.
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No smiling while posing, America's Next Top Model style, in the falling Fall leaves and sleeping branches.
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No smiling on a bus tour. Especially not when the earphones they provided you look like they were recycled from the free ones they used to give you on flights in the 90's.
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And, no smiling when you realize that you spent 40 bucks to go to a classical concert because that's the kind of thing "adults do" to experience the culture of another country, and realize that no matter how many times you try to be an adult, you just spent 40 bucks to be bored and uncomfortable.
Oh, oh! Except for the part of the concert where one woman right in front of Ali and I fainted and slid out of her chair. Those around her reacted silently and immediately, disturbing almost noone. Ali and I just watched. To our amazement, one woman in front of the Fainter had ACTUAL smelling salts in her purse. After a few moments of laying down (you can see her laying down in the video, right before Ali and I, and on the other side of the woman in the purple shirt) she was back to normal which led Ali and I to determine that the reason for the whole thing was the careless wearing of too-tight pants. Said pants cut off her circulation while sitting, and thus the faint. Let that be a lesson to all of us... It's not just the muffin-top you risk by squeezing into pants that don't fit.
We did have a couple of lucky, beautiful nights. We stumbled into this panoramic view of Parliment, the Danube River and a full moon through the precipice of Buda Castle on the other side of the river. We were the only people there, enjoying the violin and base guitar music of a couple gypsies posted up near by.
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The view from the bridge at our hotel, across the river to Gellert Hill in Buda. We also went to a bathhouse close to here for some truly classic naked, rear-slapping, Eastern Euro massages.
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From Buda Castle, over Buda. 80 percent of the city was actually destroyed in WWII, so most of the construction is relatively new, but made to look like it was old.
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And, finally, condiments. Daddy, the Majonez is for you.